“IT’S CLASSY, IT’S BEAUTIFUL AND IT’S SO MUCH MORE THAN MEATBALLS”
For their second restaurant, Michael Dearth and Ben Bayly have parked their fine-dining prowess at The Grove and produced and American-Italian meatball restaurant. Sort of. Forget any thoughts of little old New York corner shop. At this hospitality powerhouse they have aimed far higher, and that is obvious in the decor, the menu and the way things are run. It is classy, it is beautiful and it is so much more than meatballs. Grilled mackerel (in place of sardines) is a highlight, as is the saffron gnocchi with goat curd – the pasta is sublime. The crayfish meatballs are very, very good; the wagyu ones – we argue about this – could be even better. A favourite dish; Buttered maltagliati pasta with duck and porcini ragu, buttercup, and pickled black walnuts.